Training Café #45 - Olympic Climbing Analysis...and YOUR Questions Answered! - Training For Climbing

Coach Hörst serves up his analysis of the Olympic Climbing finals–the good, the bad, the contrived, and the awesome! This episode concludes with viewer questions answered on….finger training, exercise programming, order of exercise and climbing, and more!

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EPISODE time-stamps below — Scroll down!

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RUNDOWN:
0:10 – Eric’s initial thoughts on the Olympic Climbing show in Tokyo.
3:48 – SIP COFFEE with coach Hörst — climbers around the world unite!
4:20 – Olympic TV and Internet coverage….mediocre. (Meagan Martin…very good! But the live Internet English feed…very bad.)
7:43 – The “combined” format was not ideal…and the scoring system made for crazy result swings during the lead climbing finals. Yes, it was exciting; but this format and scoring didn’t really discern the world’s best climbers.
16:25 – Janja Garnbet is the GOAT!

****** QUESTIONS & ANSWERS ******
24:50 – After a max-strength training session, is it okay to do easier “climbing for fun”?
27:27 – Thoughts on finger pulleys that have minor pain?
28:38 – Should I do max hangs before or after a climbing session? (Answer: It depends! Listen for details…)
37:20 – What to do about A2 pulley pain?
43:00 – Adam and Alex are the best outdoor climbers…but didn’t place on the Olympic walls…

Eric gives his final thoughts on the Olympics.

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