Category: The Hurt Locker (Injury)

Finger Warm-Ups for Better Climbing (with Reduced ...

Posted by Lucie Hanes | Oct 7, 2024 | The Hurt Locker (Injury), Training Articles

Training and Nutritional Influence on Connective T...

Posted by Eric Hörst | Jan 8, 2024 | Nutrition & Recovery, The Hurt Locker (Injury), Train Body

6 Tips to Naturally Strengthen Your Immune System

Posted by Eric Hörst | Dec 11, 2023 | Basic Training, The Hurt Locker (Injury), Train Body

Podcast #92 – Research Update: Finger Injuri...

Posted by Eric Hörst | Oct 1, 2023 | Podcasts, The Hurt Locker (Injury)

Reducing Risk of Growth Plate Fractures in Youth C...

Posted by Eric Hörst | Aug 3, 2023 | The Hurt Locker (Injury), Youth Training

Benefits of Supplemental Protein for Climbers

Posted by Eric Hörst | May 11, 2023 | Nutrition & Recovery, The Hurt Locker (Injury)

Training Cafe #70 – Training Around Injuries and Your Questions Answered!

by Lucie Hanes | Feb 9, 2023 | The Hurt Locker (Injury), Training Cafe Vodcast

In this episode of the Training Cafe, Coach Hörst talks about how you can continue training during...

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Youth Climbing Injuries (and Prevention)

by Eric Hörst | Nov 7, 2022 | The Hurt Locker (Injury), Training Articles, Youth Training

There’s no way to make climbing 100% safe for anyone. But youth climbers face their own set...

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Video: Coach Hörst Climbing Training Interview with Dr. Jared Vagy

by Eric Hörst | Mar 19, 2022 | The Hurt Locker (Injury), Train Body

Watch The Climbing Doctor, Jared Vagy, interview Eric Hörst on a wide range of important topics...

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Treating “Climber’s Elbow” – Rehab and Prehab Protocol

by Eric Hörst | May 14, 2021 | The Hurt Locker (Injury)

Learn how to treat elbow pain associated with tight muscles and sore tendons, often the result of...

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Everything You Need To Know About Finger Tendons and Injury (Well, almost!)

by Eric Hörst | Mar 30, 2021 | Instructional Videos, The Hurt Locker (Injury)

Eric Hörst recently sat down for an interview with Sara at Send Edition climbing…to discuss...

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Rock Climbing Taping of Finger & Elbow Injuries

by Eric Hörst | Mar 1, 2021 | Instructional Videos, The Hurt Locker (Injury)

Volker Schoeffl M.D. literally wrote the book on climbing injuries…a must-own text titled...

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Video: Taking Care of Skin Splits – Jonathan Siegrist Style

by Eric Hörst | Feb 27, 2021 | Instructional Videos, The Hurt Locker (Injury)

Skin splits can make or break your session or even an entire climbing trip. Learn how pro climber...

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ACT eBook Free Download – Rehab and Prehab Exercise Book for Climbers

by Eric Hörst | Aug 1, 2020 | The Hurt Locker (Injury), Train Body

Adjunct Compensatory Training for Climbers — FREE eBook download! A few of my German climbing...

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Must-Do Rotator Cuff Training for Climbers (in 10 Minutes!)

by Eric Hörst | Nov 1, 2019 | The Hurt Locker (Injury), Train Body, Training Articles, Training Videos

Learn five simple, yet effective exercises to strengthen your rotator cuff! Climbing requires...

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Podcast #40: Blood Flow Restriction Training for Climbers

by Eric Hörst | Oct 8, 2019 | Podcasts, The Hurt Locker (Injury)

In a departure from my usual lecture style podcasts, I’m happy to feature a guest on this...

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Video: Geek Climber Q&A on Finger A2 Pulley Injury Recovery

by Eric Hörst | Sep 17, 2019 | Nutrition & Recovery, The Hurt Locker (Injury), Training Videos

Finger pulley tweaks are the most common climbing injury. No one is immune—not beginner,...

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Podcast #39: Climbing Injuries – A Perfect Storm Brewing…

by Eric Hörst | Sep 4, 2019 | Nutrition & Recovery, Podcasts, The Hurt Locker (Injury), Training Articles

Causes of Common Overuse Injuries and What You Can Do To Prevent Them! This is the fourth in a...

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training4climbing

Climbing & training tips from climbing coach and best-selling author Eric Hörst. #TrainSmarter #ClimbStronger #BoulderBetter
DM your training clips 💪

Winter is rolling in and thus the winter training

Winter is rolling in and thus the winter training season is coming in hit. Everyone wants to maximize their outdoor sessions but the winter is a great opportunity to build up for what is to come in the spring. Check out the new T4C article and learn how to build a winter routine and what are important focuses Ik following an outdoor stint. Click the link in bio for Transitioning from Cragging to Training!
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#climbing #climb #trainingforclimbing #tranining

Are you at the point in your climbing where you ar

Are you at the point in your climbing where you are ready to begin hangboarding, or want a new protocol to check out? If you’ve been climbing long enough and feel ready to begin a higher end workout you are in the right place. A detailed one arm, and 2 arm protocol is outlined on the Training for Climbing website. So check out the article and the associated videos in the Advanced Hangboarding link in bio!
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#climb #trainingforclimbing #training #climbing #hangboarding #physivantage

Episode 108 of the Training for climbing podcast d

Episode 108 of the Training for climbing podcast dropped today! In this episode Coach Hörst talks about 13 actionable tactics and strategies that play a huge role in your climbing performance. Ranging from personal control of your body, to timing and mentality. Check out the link in bio to access the podcast or listen wherever you find your episodes.
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#trainingforclimbingpodcast #climb #climbing #training

Learn why I always pack two pairs of shoes in my r

Learn why I always pack two pairs of shoes in my rucksack. This is the first in a new series of “Quick Tips” — subscribe to the Training For Climbing channel for notice of future videos!

👉Watch video at the link in our bio!

#climbingtraining #climbing #performance La Sportiva

Every seems to always want more capacity in theirs

Every seems to always want more capacity in theirs climbing days. Whether that means more goes on a project, more threshold for an individual route, or simply more pitches in a day. The question is how do you know to focus on this style of climbing while training or while climbing outside? It is critical to understand the difference between the aerobic and anaerobic energy system. Check out the link in bio for Anaerobic vs Aerobic training!
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#climb #climbing #trainingforclimbing #training

Did you know about the Monday training cafe? Certa

Did you know about the Monday training cafe? Certain Mondays Coach Hörst hosts a live training cafe on the train gìn for climbing YouTube Channel! Check out the posting from this week and tune in for future episodes to get your climbing/training/performance questions answered!
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#training #climbing #trainingforclimbing #trainingcafe

Check out last weeks Training for Climbing Podcast

Check out last weeks Training for Climbing Podcast with Coach Hörst! Episode 107 focuses on dialing in your game in the final days leading up to your projecting season. A primary focus of this podcast is how to prevent the pun, which we all know you need! Check it out wherever you get your podcasts, and leave a review!
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#climb #trainingforclimbing #training #climbingpodcast

#Repost @c4hp with some really good information on

#Repost @c4hp with some really good information on sloper nuances!
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👊 Sloper Stress: Key Insights for Climbers 👊

If you’ve been climbing for a while, you know that using slopers requires significantly more friction (indicated by the pink shading) compared to other types of holds. The greater the skin surface area in contact with the hold, the better you can apply downward force.

Slopers are designed with a downward slope and often lack sharp edges, which means your fingers are positioned at wider angles. This wider angle, viewed through the lens of the length-tension relationship (how muscle length affects its strength), is not ideal for generating force.

In this position, your wrist is more “passive” and stretched compared to when you’re gripping smaller, flatter holds. In contrast, when your wrist is in a flexed position (like in a half or full crimp), the length-tension relationship of your finger and wrist flexors improves, allowing for better force generation.

Due to the shape of slopers, climbers depend more on passive structures such as joint capsules, ligaments, and titin to maintain balance below the hands. Once skin contact is lost, the wrist flexes to create a plumb line (indicated by the green arrow) underneath. This flexed position places significant stress on the wrist’s ligaments.

Now, consider that the average strain on wrist ligaments increases when a climber is fatigued. As you tire, your muscles become less effective at protecting the joint, putting even more strain on the ligaments.

Actionable Takeaways:

1. Vary Your Holds: Regularly change the types of holds you use during practice.

2. No Added Weight: Focus on developing your skill with slopers without adding extra weight.

3. Strength Training: Incorporate exercises to improve forearm strength and recruitment.

4. Know When to Stop: End your climbing session when you notice a drop in coordination.

By following these guidelines, you can enhance your performance while minimizing the risk of injury.

#rockclimbing #climbingtraining #climbingperformance #climbstrong #climbingdoctor #usaclimbing #performanceclimbingcoach #ifsc #wristinjury #training4climbing #climbinglife

If you missed it, check out episode 102 of the Tra

If you missed it, check out episode 102 of the Training For Climbing podcast. This episode, released a few months ago is the fourth iteration of the road to 5.13 for @thestruggleclimbingshow . Ryan has been inching closer to his goal of 13a and hopefully this fall it goes down! Give this episode a listen for some coaching that you can apply to your own projects this season! Click the link in bio to find it, or listen wherever you get podcasts!
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#climb #training #trainingforclimbing #fallclimbing #climbing

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