Category: Nutrition & Recovery

Fueling for Sending with Amity Warme, Climbing Die...

Posted by Lucie Hanes | Aug 12, 2024 | Athlete Spotlights, Nutrition & Recovery

How to Develop Stronger Fingers and Tendons for Cl...

Posted by Eric Hörst | Jul 21, 2024 | Nutrition & Recovery, Research, Train Body

Podcast 101: Optimizing Training, Health, and Perf...

Posted by Eric Hörst | Jul 9, 2024 | Nutrition & Recovery, Podcasts, Train Body

Slowing the Pump Clock: 5 Strategies to Improve Yo...

Posted by Eric Hörst | Jul 1, 2024 | Climbing Mastery, Nutrition & Recovery, Train Strategy, Train Technique & Skills

Training & Wellness Podcast for the Aging Ath...

Posted by Eric Hörst | Apr 9, 2024 | Nutrition & Recovery, Podcasts

How to Improve Gut Health for Climbing Performance

Posted by Lucie Hanes | Mar 15, 2024 | Nutrition & Recovery

Podcast #96: Train for Gains in 2024 (and My Venture into Kilter Boarding!)

by Eric Hörst | Feb 1, 2024 | Nutrition & Recovery, Podcasts, Train Body

Lean in dear listener…and enjoy the most transparent Training For Climbing podcast ever! In...

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Training and Nutritional Influence on Connective Tissue Strength & Injury Risk

by Eric Hörst | Jan 8, 2024 | Nutrition & Recovery, The Hurt Locker (Injury), Train Body

Training hard only pays off when your body can adapt to the load so it can recover stronger. Learn...

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Hydration Tips for Hot Crag Days

by Lucie Hanes | Jul 20, 2023 | Nutrition & Recovery

Climbing well on hot days at the crag requires giving your body what it needs to withstand the...

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Podcast #89: How Often Should You “Rest Day” While on a Climbing Roadtrip

by Eric Hörst | Jul 11, 2023 | Nutrition & Recovery, Podcasts

Learn the factors should you consider in deciding when to rest and when to climb while on a...

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The Skinny on Optimizing Body Composition to Improve Climbing Performance

by Eric Hörst | Jun 19, 2023 | Basic Training, Nutrition & Recovery, Train Body, Training Articles

Strength-to-weight ratios are key performance indicators for climbers. Learn one way to increase...

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Benefits of Supplemental Protein for Climbers

by Eric Hörst | May 11, 2023 | Nutrition & Recovery, The Hurt Locker (Injury)

If you’re serious about your climbing performance, then you must also be serious about...

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Overnight Recovery Tactics for Weekend Warriors

by Lucie Hanes | Apr 27, 2023 | Climbing Mastery, Nutrition & Recovery

The typical weekend warrior schedule doesn’t leave much room for rest between hard outdoor...

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Performance Nutrition Through the Lens of Top Pro Climbers

by Eric Hörst | Apr 18, 2023 | Nutrition & Recovery

Ever wonder how rock climbing’s top athletes fuel their bodies? To perform at a high level...

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The Truth About Caffeine for Climbing Performance

by Eric Hörst | Apr 17, 2023 | Nutrition & Recovery

If you are a coffee aficionado like me, then this article is for you! Your addiction—er, culinary...

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Self-Care for Routesetters: Nutrition Tactics

by Lucie Hanes | Dec 26, 2022 | Nutrition & Recovery

Routesetting is both a physically and mentally taxing job. To keep up with the heavy workload, you...

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Podcast #81 – Boulder & Crag Day Climbing Nutrition for Peak Performance

by Eric Hörst | Oct 25, 2022 | Nutrition & Recovery, Podcasts

Learn what to eat, how much water to drink, and what supplements you might take to enhance your...

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Manage Fatigue and Accelerate Recovery

by Eric Hörst | Oct 3, 2022 | Nutrition & Recovery, Training Articles

If you are serious about climbing performance, then you must be serious about managing your...

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training4climbing

Climbing & training tips from climbing coach and best-selling author Eric Hörst. #TrainSmarter #ClimbStronger #BoulderBetter
DM your training clips 💪

Winter is rolling in and thus the winter training

Winter is rolling in and thus the winter training season is coming in hit. Everyone wants to maximize their outdoor sessions but the winter is a great opportunity to build up for what is to come in the spring. Check out the new T4C article and learn how to build a winter routine and what are important focuses Ik following an outdoor stint. Click the link in bio for Transitioning from Cragging to Training!
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#climbing #climb #trainingforclimbing #tranining

Are you at the point in your climbing where you ar

Are you at the point in your climbing where you are ready to begin hangboarding, or want a new protocol to check out? If you’ve been climbing long enough and feel ready to begin a higher end workout you are in the right place. A detailed one arm, and 2 arm protocol is outlined on the Training for Climbing website. So check out the article and the associated videos in the Advanced Hangboarding link in bio!
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#climb #trainingforclimbing #training #climbing #hangboarding #physivantage

Episode 108 of the Training for climbing podcast d

Episode 108 of the Training for climbing podcast dropped today! In this episode Coach Hörst talks about 13 actionable tactics and strategies that play a huge role in your climbing performance. Ranging from personal control of your body, to timing and mentality. Check out the link in bio to access the podcast or listen wherever you find your episodes.
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#trainingforclimbingpodcast #climb #climbing #training

Learn why I always pack two pairs of shoes in my r

Learn why I always pack two pairs of shoes in my rucksack. This is the first in a new series of “Quick Tips” — subscribe to the Training For Climbing channel for notice of future videos!

👉Watch video at the link in our bio!

#climbingtraining #climbing #performance La Sportiva

Every seems to always want more capacity in theirs

Every seems to always want more capacity in theirs climbing days. Whether that means more goes on a project, more threshold for an individual route, or simply more pitches in a day. The question is how do you know to focus on this style of climbing while training or while climbing outside? It is critical to understand the difference between the aerobic and anaerobic energy system. Check out the link in bio for Anaerobic vs Aerobic training!
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#climb #climbing #trainingforclimbing #training

Did you know about the Monday training cafe? Certa

Did you know about the Monday training cafe? Certain Mondays Coach Hörst hosts a live training cafe on the train gìn for climbing YouTube Channel! Check out the posting from this week and tune in for future episodes to get your climbing/training/performance questions answered!
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#training #climbing #trainingforclimbing #trainingcafe

Check out last weeks Training for Climbing Podcast

Check out last weeks Training for Climbing Podcast with Coach Hörst! Episode 107 focuses on dialing in your game in the final days leading up to your projecting season. A primary focus of this podcast is how to prevent the pun, which we all know you need! Check it out wherever you get your podcasts, and leave a review!
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#climb #trainingforclimbing #training #climbingpodcast

#Repost @c4hp with some really good information on

#Repost @c4hp with some really good information on sloper nuances!
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👊 Sloper Stress: Key Insights for Climbers 👊

If you’ve been climbing for a while, you know that using slopers requires significantly more friction (indicated by the pink shading) compared to other types of holds. The greater the skin surface area in contact with the hold, the better you can apply downward force.

Slopers are designed with a downward slope and often lack sharp edges, which means your fingers are positioned at wider angles. This wider angle, viewed through the lens of the length-tension relationship (how muscle length affects its strength), is not ideal for generating force.

In this position, your wrist is more “passive” and stretched compared to when you’re gripping smaller, flatter holds. In contrast, when your wrist is in a flexed position (like in a half or full crimp), the length-tension relationship of your finger and wrist flexors improves, allowing for better force generation.

Due to the shape of slopers, climbers depend more on passive structures such as joint capsules, ligaments, and titin to maintain balance below the hands. Once skin contact is lost, the wrist flexes to create a plumb line (indicated by the green arrow) underneath. This flexed position places significant stress on the wrist’s ligaments.

Now, consider that the average strain on wrist ligaments increases when a climber is fatigued. As you tire, your muscles become less effective at protecting the joint, putting even more strain on the ligaments.

Actionable Takeaways:

1. Vary Your Holds: Regularly change the types of holds you use during practice.

2. No Added Weight: Focus on developing your skill with slopers without adding extra weight.

3. Strength Training: Incorporate exercises to improve forearm strength and recruitment.

4. Know When to Stop: End your climbing session when you notice a drop in coordination.

By following these guidelines, you can enhance your performance while minimizing the risk of injury.

#rockclimbing #climbingtraining #climbingperformance #climbstrong #climbingdoctor #usaclimbing #performanceclimbingcoach #ifsc #wristinjury #training4climbing #climbinglife

If you missed it, check out episode 102 of the Tra

If you missed it, check out episode 102 of the Training For Climbing podcast. This episode, released a few months ago is the fourth iteration of the road to 5.13 for @thestruggleclimbingshow . Ryan has been inching closer to his goal of 13a and hopefully this fall it goes down! Give this episode a listen for some coaching that you can apply to your own projects this season! Click the link in bio to find it, or listen wherever you get podcasts!
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#climb #training #trainingforclimbing #fallclimbing #climbing

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