Tag: eric horst

Podcast #114 – Common Training Mistakes That...

Posted by Eric Hörst | Apr 10, 2025 | Climbing Mastery, Podcasts

Podcast #50: The 8 Superpowers of the Very Best Cl...

Posted by Eric Hörst | Mar 22, 2025 | Climbing Mastery, Motivation, Podcasts, Train Mind

Training Café #81 – Level Up Your Training i...

Posted by Eric Hörst | Jan 13, 2025 | Train Body, Training Cafe Vodcast

Podcast #98: Training for Bouldering with Drew Rua...

Posted by Eric Hörst | Apr 20, 2024 | Podcasts, Train Body

Simple Formula for Success (In Anything!)

Posted by Eric Hörst | Mar 30, 2024 | Train Mind, Train Strategy, Training Videos

“60 Is the New 40” – Fighting Father Time (Lessons...

Posted by Lucie Hanes | Feb 15, 2024 | Athlete Spotlights, Train Body, Train Mind, Train Strategy

How Coach Eric Hörst (Quickly) Sent Kaleidoscope, 5.13c, After Injury

by Lucie Hanes | May 8, 2023 | Athlete Spotlights, Send Videos, Train Strategy

Coach Eric Hörst, 59, made the most of a finger injury by letting go of expectations, changing up...

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The “10-4″ Rule for Projecting Sport Climbs

by Eric Hörst | Apr 24, 2023 | Train Strategy, Training Articles

Becoming a better sport climber demands a proper balance of improving your skills and pushing...

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Intro to Energy System Training for Climbers (Hörst Keynote at IRCRA)

by Eric Hörst | Jan 31, 2021 | Research, Train Body, Training Articles

Energy system training, as a conceptual model for organizing your workouts, is a cutting-edge...

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Video: Contact Finger Strength Training for Climbers

by Eric Hörst | Dec 27, 2020 | Train Body, Training Videos

Learn how to train-up your finger contact strength. Some people refer to this capability as...

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Podcast #24: Energy System Training (part 3) – Anaerobic Capacity Training #2

by Eric Hörst | May 21, 2018 | Podcasts, Train Body

This is the third in a five-part series on energy system training as a conceptual model for...

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Coaching Video: Managing the Fear of Falling

by Eric Hörst | Oct 18, 2017 | Train Mind, Training Videos

If you occasionally struggle with the fear of falling, then this video is for you! Surely the fear...

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Podcast #14: Performance Tips for Weekend Warriors

by Eric Hörst | Jul 1, 2017 | Podcasts, Train Mind, Train Strategy

If you’re a passionate climber who works full-time (or in school), then you likely train indoors...

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Video: Complete Core Training (Epic-TV Ep. #4)

by Eric Hörst | Jan 5, 2017 | Train Body, Training Videos

When it comes to core training, many people view it as simply a quest for six-pack abs. For a...

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Video: Campus Power Training (Epic-TV Ep. #3)

by Eric Hörst | Dec 26, 2016 | Training Articles, Training Videos

Learn two effective campus training exercises for developing upper-body power for bouldering and...

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Vodcast: The Power of Proactive Positive Thinking

by Eric Hörst | Oct 23, 2015 | Train Mind, Training Videos

In this video podcast, you will learn about the true power of positive thinking—and I’m going to...

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Behavior Analysis and Sport Climbing

by Eric Hörst | Aug 1, 2015 | Research

This is a paper by Dr. Richard Fleming and Eric Hörst providing a behavioral analysis of...

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Podcast #3: Accelerated Learning of Climbing Skills

by Eric Hörst | Apr 16, 2015 | Podcasts

Despite being as intuitive and natural as walking or running, climbing can be a remarkably complex...

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training4climbing

Climbing & training tips from climbing coach and best-selling author Eric Hörst. #TrainSmarter #ClimbStronger #BoulderBetter
DM your training clips 💪

🚨New Podcast Alert 🚨 . Episode 115 of the Tr

🚨New Podcast Alert 🚨
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Episode 115 of the Training for Climbing podcast is available today. This podcast features @thestruggleclimbingshow host Ryan Devlin and discusses his breakthrough of 13a, and the process of progressing beyond, including grad pyramids, planning and projecting! Find a link in the bio, or wherever you listen to podcasts.
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#climb #trainingforclimbing #training

#Repost @yannick_flohe . All climbers see crazy st

#Repost @yannick_flohe . All climbers see crazy strength displays like this and wonder how to take a step towards getting there themselves. Surely it will take time (or a lifetime) to do this, but you’ll have to start on the hangboard. Everyone wants stronger fingers but few understands just how to do it right. Learn four essential fingerboard training protocols to improve your climbing strength and endurance from the article found in the link in bio!

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My fat ass learning how to hang the @beastmakers 6mm edges 🫨 New Year’s resolution: strong fingers 🤞
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#training#lifting#fitness#beastmaker#fingerboard#motivation#climbing#bouldering#trainingforclimbing

As many aspire to maximize their potential, squeez

As many aspire to maximize their potential, squeeze out every juice of performance, you may wonder what makes the pros so capable at doing this same thing. As you may expect, there are a handful of characteristics and tactics that make the pros, the pros… and you can adopt some yourself. Click the link in bio to hear about tapping into your potential and being like the best in a past but still pertinent episode of the training for climbing podcast!
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#climbing #training #trainingforclimbing

#Repost @thestruggleclimbingshow . Everyone has h

#Repost @thestruggleclimbingshow
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Everyone has heard about building their pyramid, but what does that actually look like on an person to person basis, and how do you balance this with projecting?
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In the recent Road to the Pyramid chat with Coach @eric_horst, I was reminded of the importance of aerobic training even in the “off season”... the lack of which I’ve definitely been feeling as I try longer routes this spring. For more of Eric’s sound wisdom and specific training protocols for route-climbing season, check out the full episode on Spotify, Apple, YouTube, or wherever your pod. Bonus stuff over on Patreon!

Have you checked in with yourself lately about you

Have you checked in with yourself lately about your goals in training and climbing? What about in your life beyond climbing? What’s your destination? How will you get there?
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These questions get answered by Coach Hörst in a quick article and video. Learn about the process of success and how you can fit this formula into your goal! Click the link in Bio to read about it.
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#climbing #training #trainingforclimbing

This is a problem everyone encounters. These tacti

This is a problem everyone encounters. These tactics can only be learned through trial and may be extremely impactful towards your performance. Although the weather is getting warmer out, it is never too late to stay on top of your high end performance strategies. Check it out more in depth in the link in bio.
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#trainingforclimbing #climbing #training

Training Inspo with @alexandermegos 💪🏼 30

Training Inspo with @alexandermegos 💪🏼

30 one arm pull ups:
• 1 rep with +15kg
• 2 reps with +9kg
• 3 reps with +6kg
• 4 reps with +3kg
• 5 reps with +0kg
(+100 two arm pull ups in 10min later on).

#trainingforclimbing

Warming up is easy when you know how! Here’s 3 s

Warming up is easy when you know how! Here’s 3 steps to a quick and easy finger warm up at the crag! 🤌⁣
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1️⃣ Repeater pulls⁣
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Grab a sling and a lifting edge, like the MXEdge Lift or Mini Bar.⁣
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Hook the sling around your foot and complete several reps and sets on each arm, gradually building up the force on each set. ⁣
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The max effort on a single pull should be around 6/10 on the last set. ⁣
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2️⃣ Max hang pulls⁣
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This isn’t actually max effort, but a build-up from a 6/10 effort to an 8/10 effort on each pull. ⁣
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Pull on the same edge in your chosen grip for around 10 seconds and complete a few sets on each arm with more rest between each set. ⁣
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3️⃣ Get Specific ⁣
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Before pulling on, check out the type of holds you will be using on your climb. You can use the same protocol as in step 2 but with different grip types. ⁣
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If there are lots of small crimps on your chosen climb, complete some pulls in a crimp position using a smaller edge.⁣
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If there are lots of pockets on your climb complete the same pulls using 1 or 2 fingers on the hold. ⁣
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➡️ Need a warm-up tool for the season check out the Mx edge on our website for our audience in the USA! @physivantage is the USA based distributor. Link in our bio

📷 Photo by tcpc5525
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#LatticeTraining #WeTrainClimbers #ClimbingWarmUp #FingerStrength

Almost every climber has some interaction with int

Almost every climber has some interaction with interior or exterior forearm pain. A key to mitigating, or preventing this can be deliberate training if the forearm antagonist muscles to counterbalance the usual muscles overused in climbing training. So if you are curious how to train the climbing antagonist muscles in your forearms? Here’s a brief biomechanical overview of the muscle interaction in the forearm. Click the link in bio to watch the entire video for antagonist training on the TFC YouTube channel!

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