Category: Research

How to Develop Stronger Fingers and Tendons for Cl...

Posted by Eric Hörst | Jul 21, 2024 | Nutrition & Recovery, Research, Train Body

Differences Between Male and Female Athletes, Part...

Posted by Lucie Hanes | Apr 9, 2024 | Research

Differences Between Male and Female Athletes, Part...

Posted by Lucie Hanes | Apr 5, 2024 | Research

Intro to Energy System Training for Climbers (Hörs...

Posted by Eric Hörst | Jan 31, 2021 | Research, Train Body, Training Articles

Bouldering Psychotherapy: How Climbing Can Help Ba...

Posted by Eric Hörst | Feb 11, 2020 | Research, Train Mind

Podcast #31: Hangboard Training Guidelines, Pro Ti...

Posted by Eric Hörst | Dec 7, 2018 | Podcasts, Research, Train Body

What Makes Adam Ondra the World’s Best Climber?

by Eric Hörst | Nov 24, 2018 | Climbing Mastery, Research

For me, climbing and science go together like coffee and dark chocolate. Rarely does a day pass me...

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Podcast #30: Climbing Research Highlights & Training Tips

by Eric Hörst | Nov 3, 2018 | Podcasts, Research

In this podcast I share some climbing research highlights from this summer’s incredible 4th...

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Conceptual Model for Maximum-Difficulty Sport Climbing

by Eric Hörst | Jul 22, 2018 | Climbing Mastery, Research, Train Body, Train Strategy

I’ve just returned from a month-long trip to Europe, one of the highlights of which was...

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Functional Outcome After Surgical Repair of Rotator Cuff Tears in Rock Climbers

by Eric Hörst | Oct 26, 2017 | Research, The Hurt Locker (Injury)

Functional Outcome After Surgical Repair of Rotator Cuff Tears in Rock Climbers (Simon M., Popp...

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Podcast #16: The Future of Training for Climbing!

by Eric Hörst | Sep 16, 2017 | Podcasts, Research

Eric describes in detail his vision for improving the effectiveness of training programs via...

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Research on Grip Strength and Hangboard Training Protocols

by Eric Hörst | Oct 19, 2016 | Research, Train Body

I’m a research junkie. I’ve been a student of exercise physiology, sports psychology,...

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Behavior Analysis and Sport Climbing

by Eric Hörst | Aug 1, 2015 | Research

This is a paper by Dr. Richard Fleming and Eric Hörst providing a behavioral analysis of...

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Effectiveness of “Dangling Arm” and “G-Tox” Recovery Techniques

by Eric Hörst | Jun 2, 2015 | Research, Train Strategy

Key Points and Practical Application: In this study, the “G-tox” active recovery...

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Benefits of Active Recovery Between Climbs

by Eric Hörst | Apr 1, 2015 | Research, Train Strategy

Key Points & Practical Application: Compared with passive recovery, use of active recovery...

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The Physiology of Difficult Rock Climbing

by Eric Hörst | Feb 10, 2015 | Research

Key Findings and Practical Applications Elite climbers do not typically possess extremely high aerobic power, nor absolute strength. Elite climbers tend towards possessing low body mass and low body fat percentage. Handgrip...

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Rock Climbing Trajectory: A Global Variable of Rock Climbing Performance

by Eric Hörst | Jan 26, 2015 | Research

Rock Climbing Trajectory: A Global Variable of Rock Climbing Performance D.M.Binney (University of...

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training4climbing

Climbing & training tips from climbing coach and best-selling author Eric Hörst. #TrainSmarter #ClimbStronger #BoulderBetter
DM your training clips 💪

Winter is rolling in and thus the winter training

Winter is rolling in and thus the winter training season is coming in hit. Everyone wants to maximize their outdoor sessions but the winter is a great opportunity to build up for what is to come in the spring. Check out the new T4C article and learn how to build a winter routine and what are important focuses Ik following an outdoor stint. Click the link in bio for Transitioning from Cragging to Training!
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#climbing #climb #trainingforclimbing #tranining

Are you at the point in your climbing where you ar

Are you at the point in your climbing where you are ready to begin hangboarding, or want a new protocol to check out? If you’ve been climbing long enough and feel ready to begin a higher end workout you are in the right place. A detailed one arm, and 2 arm protocol is outlined on the Training for Climbing website. So check out the article and the associated videos in the Advanced Hangboarding link in bio!
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#climb #trainingforclimbing #training #climbing #hangboarding #physivantage

Episode 108 of the Training for climbing podcast d

Episode 108 of the Training for climbing podcast dropped today! In this episode Coach Hörst talks about 13 actionable tactics and strategies that play a huge role in your climbing performance. Ranging from personal control of your body, to timing and mentality. Check out the link in bio to access the podcast or listen wherever you find your episodes.
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#trainingforclimbingpodcast #climb #climbing #training

Learn why I always pack two pairs of shoes in my r

Learn why I always pack two pairs of shoes in my rucksack. This is the first in a new series of “Quick Tips” — subscribe to the Training For Climbing channel for notice of future videos!

👉Watch video at the link in our bio!

#climbingtraining #climbing #performance La Sportiva

Every seems to always want more capacity in theirs

Every seems to always want more capacity in theirs climbing days. Whether that means more goes on a project, more threshold for an individual route, or simply more pitches in a day. The question is how do you know to focus on this style of climbing while training or while climbing outside? It is critical to understand the difference between the aerobic and anaerobic energy system. Check out the link in bio for Anaerobic vs Aerobic training!
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#climb #climbing #trainingforclimbing #training

Did you know about the Monday training cafe? Certa

Did you know about the Monday training cafe? Certain Mondays Coach Hörst hosts a live training cafe on the train gìn for climbing YouTube Channel! Check out the posting from this week and tune in for future episodes to get your climbing/training/performance questions answered!
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#training #climbing #trainingforclimbing #trainingcafe

Check out last weeks Training for Climbing Podcast

Check out last weeks Training for Climbing Podcast with Coach Hörst! Episode 107 focuses on dialing in your game in the final days leading up to your projecting season. A primary focus of this podcast is how to prevent the pun, which we all know you need! Check it out wherever you get your podcasts, and leave a review!
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#climb #trainingforclimbing #training #climbingpodcast

#Repost @c4hp with some really good information on

#Repost @c4hp with some really good information on sloper nuances!
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👊 Sloper Stress: Key Insights for Climbers 👊

If you’ve been climbing for a while, you know that using slopers requires significantly more friction (indicated by the pink shading) compared to other types of holds. The greater the skin surface area in contact with the hold, the better you can apply downward force.

Slopers are designed with a downward slope and often lack sharp edges, which means your fingers are positioned at wider angles. This wider angle, viewed through the lens of the length-tension relationship (how muscle length affects its strength), is not ideal for generating force.

In this position, your wrist is more “passive” and stretched compared to when you’re gripping smaller, flatter holds. In contrast, when your wrist is in a flexed position (like in a half or full crimp), the length-tension relationship of your finger and wrist flexors improves, allowing for better force generation.

Due to the shape of slopers, climbers depend more on passive structures such as joint capsules, ligaments, and titin to maintain balance below the hands. Once skin contact is lost, the wrist flexes to create a plumb line (indicated by the green arrow) underneath. This flexed position places significant stress on the wrist’s ligaments.

Now, consider that the average strain on wrist ligaments increases when a climber is fatigued. As you tire, your muscles become less effective at protecting the joint, putting even more strain on the ligaments.

Actionable Takeaways:

1. Vary Your Holds: Regularly change the types of holds you use during practice.

2. No Added Weight: Focus on developing your skill with slopers without adding extra weight.

3. Strength Training: Incorporate exercises to improve forearm strength and recruitment.

4. Know When to Stop: End your climbing session when you notice a drop in coordination.

By following these guidelines, you can enhance your performance while minimizing the risk of injury.

#rockclimbing #climbingtraining #climbingperformance #climbstrong #climbingdoctor #usaclimbing #performanceclimbingcoach #ifsc #wristinjury #training4climbing #climbinglife

If you missed it, check out episode 102 of the Tra

If you missed it, check out episode 102 of the Training For Climbing podcast. This episode, released a few months ago is the fourth iteration of the road to 5.13 for @thestruggleclimbingshow . Ryan has been inching closer to his goal of 13a and hopefully this fall it goes down! Give this episode a listen for some coaching that you can apply to your own projects this season! Click the link in bio to find it, or listen wherever you get podcasts!
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#climb #training #trainingforclimbing #fallclimbing #climbing

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