Category: Research

How to Develop Stronger Fingers and Tendons for Cl...

Posted by Eric Hörst | Nov 21, 2024 | Nutrition & Recovery, Research, Train Body

Differences Between Male and Female Athletes, Part...

Posted by Lucie Hanes | Apr 9, 2024 | Research

Differences Between Male and Female Athletes, Part...

Posted by Lucie Hanes | Apr 5, 2024 | Research

Intro to Energy System Training for Climbers (Hörs...

Posted by Eric Hörst | Jan 31, 2021 | Research, Train Body, Training Articles

Bouldering Psychotherapy: How Climbing Can Help Ba...

Posted by Eric Hörst | Feb 11, 2020 | Research, Train Mind

Podcast #31: Hangboard Training Guidelines, Pro Ti...

Posted by Eric Hörst | Dec 7, 2018 | Podcasts, Research, Train Body

What Makes Adam Ondra the World’s Best Climber?

by Eric Hörst | Nov 24, 2018 | Climbing Mastery, Research

For me, climbing and science go together like coffee and dark chocolate. Rarely does a day pass me...

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Podcast #30: Climbing Research Highlights & Training Tips

by Eric Hörst | Nov 3, 2018 | Podcasts, Research

In this podcast I share some climbing research highlights from this summer’s incredible 4th...

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Conceptual Model for Maximum-Difficulty Sport Climbing

by Eric Hörst | Jul 22, 2018 | Climbing Mastery, Research, Train Body, Train Strategy

I’ve just returned from a month-long trip to Europe, one of the highlights of which was...

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Functional Outcome After Surgical Repair of Rotator Cuff Tears in Rock Climbers

by Eric Hörst | Oct 26, 2017 | Research, The Hurt Locker (Injury)

Functional Outcome After Surgical Repair of Rotator Cuff Tears in Rock Climbers (Simon M., Popp...

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Podcast #16: The Future of Training for Climbing!

by Eric Hörst | Sep 16, 2017 | Podcasts, Research

Eric describes in detail his vision for improving the effectiveness of training programs via...

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Research on Grip Strength and Hangboard Training Protocols

by Eric Hörst | Oct 19, 2016 | Research, Train Body

I’m a research junkie. I’ve been a student of exercise physiology, sports psychology,...

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Behavior Analysis and Sport Climbing

by Eric Hörst | Aug 1, 2015 | Research

This is a paper by Dr. Richard Fleming and Eric Hörst providing a behavioral analysis of...

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Effectiveness of “Dangling Arm” and “G-Tox” Recovery Techniques

by Eric Hörst | Jun 2, 2015 | Research, Train Strategy

Key Points and Practical Application: In this study, the “G-tox” active recovery...

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Benefits of Active Recovery Between Climbs

by Eric Hörst | Apr 1, 2015 | Research, Train Strategy

Key Points & Practical Application: Compared with passive recovery, use of active recovery...

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The Physiology of Difficult Rock Climbing

by Eric Hörst | Feb 10, 2015 | Research

Key Findings and Practical Applications Elite climbers do not typically possess extremely high aerobic power, nor absolute strength. Elite climbers tend towards possessing low body mass and low body fat percentage. Handgrip...

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Rock Climbing Trajectory: A Global Variable of Rock Climbing Performance

by Eric Hörst | Jan 26, 2015 | Research

Rock Climbing Trajectory: A Global Variable of Rock Climbing Performance D.M.Binney (University of...

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training4climbing

Climbing & training tips from climbing coach and best-selling author Eric Hörst. #TrainSmarter #ClimbStronger #BoulderBetter
DM your training clips 💪

‼️Winter Training Season and Your QUESTIONS an

‼️Winter Training Season and Your QUESTIONS answered with Coach @eric_horst!

In episode 80 of Training Café, Coach Hörst details the keys for engaging in an effective and personalized winter training program.

Plus, he answers view questions beginning around 26:00 mark.

➡️➡️ Listen to the full episode on YouTube or in @physivantage bio!

• @cam_horst admits that the first few sessions

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@cam_horst admits that the first few sessions of his projects can be a bit uninspired—hanging on nearly every bolt—despite being a pro climber.

But after 15-plus years of climbing and actively studying the “art” of projecting, he has learned that the most important part of projecting is repeated failure. By embracing failure and fine-tuning his sequences, he often sees rapid progress.

Tap the link by @climbingmagazine in our bio to get his tips for sending your project.

✍️ @cam_horst
📸 @dantbaum @eric_horst

If you haven’t already check out the new podcast

If you haven’t already check out the new podcast with Coach Hörst and Alex Megos covering Diet, Nutrition, performance and more! Find it on Megosclimbing on YouTube and Spotify and check out the Trainingforclimbing podcast for similar content!
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Climbers diet and nutrition!

Our latest Podcast with @eric_horst is online on YouTube and Spotify now!!!
Listen to a conversation packed with information about training, nutrition and stories of the good old days.

@tenayaclimbing @patagonia_climb @yetieurope @petzl_official @karpos @scarpa_de @physivantage @frictionlabs @training4climbing

Training while on climbing trips? If you’re in a

Training while on climbing trips? If you’re in a prolonged climbing trip, how do you balance maintaining high end strength/power while also staying fresh and maximizing outdoor days? There are a few circumstances where you can add in some training to stay in top strength. First, If you get a period of poor weather, rather than resting for multiple days, throw in a training session where you can focus on some areas not touched outside (perhaps bouldering, max fingers, isometrics, or power). Another option is at the end of a day where you did not get a full outdoor workout in, and are leading into a rest day. This gives the opportunity to finish your day with a challenging workout before a coming rest day. In this video Alex takes advantage of a rainy day at the Red River Gorge training max finger strength to stay primed for pulling hard on an outdoor project!
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#climb #training #trainingforclimbing #trainingtips #climbing

Winter is rolling in and thus the winter training

Winter is rolling in and thus the winter training season is coming in hit. Everyone wants to maximize their outdoor sessions but the winter is a great opportunity to build up for what is to come in the spring. Check out the new T4C article and learn how to build a winter routine and what are important focuses Ik following an outdoor stint. Click the link in bio for Transitioning from Cragging to Training!
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#climbing #climb #trainingforclimbing #tranining

Are you at the point in your climbing where you ar

Are you at the point in your climbing where you are ready to begin hangboarding, or want a new protocol to check out? If you’ve been climbing long enough and feel ready to begin a higher end workout you are in the right place. A detailed one arm, and 2 arm protocol is outlined on the Training for Climbing website. So check out the article and the associated videos in the Advanced Hangboarding link in bio!
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#climb #trainingforclimbing #training #climbing #hangboarding #physivantage

Episode 108 of the Training for climbing podcast d

Episode 108 of the Training for climbing podcast dropped today! In this episode Coach Hörst talks about 13 actionable tactics and strategies that play a huge role in your climbing performance. Ranging from personal control of your body, to timing and mentality. Check out the link in bio to access the podcast or listen wherever you find your episodes.
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#trainingforclimbingpodcast #climb #climbing #training

Learn why I always pack two pairs of shoes in my r

Learn why I always pack two pairs of shoes in my rucksack. This is the first in a new series of “Quick Tips” — subscribe to the Training For Climbing channel for notice of future videos!

👉Watch video at the link in our bio!

#climbingtraining #climbing #performance La Sportiva

Every seems to always want more capacity in theirs

Every seems to always want more capacity in theirs climbing days. Whether that means more goes on a project, more threshold for an individual route, or simply more pitches in a day. The question is how do you know to focus on this style of climbing while training or while climbing outside? It is critical to understand the difference between the aerobic and anaerobic energy system. Check out the link in bio for Anaerobic vs Aerobic training!
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#climb #climbing #trainingforclimbing #training

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