Podcast #16: The Future of Training for Climbing!
Eric describes in detail his vision for improving the effectiveness of training programs via advances in…
Research on Grip Strength and Hangboard Training Protocols
I’m a research junkie. I’ve been a student of exercise physiology, sports psychology, and motor…
Behavior Analysis and Sport Climbing
This is a paper by Dr. Richard Fleming and Eric Hörst providing a behavioral analysis…
Effectiveness of “Dangling Arm” and “G-Tox” Recovery Techniques
Key Points and Practical Application: In this study, the “G-tox” active recovery method proved superior to…
Benefits of Active Recovery Between Climbs
Key Points & Practical Application: Compared with passive recovery, use of active recovery yielded faster…
The Physiology of Difficult Rock Climbing
Key Findings and Practical Applications Elite climbers do not typically possess extremely high aerobic power,…
Rock Climbing Trajectory: A Global Variable of Rock Climbing Performance
Rock Climbing Trajectory: A Global Variable of Rock Climbing Performance D.M.Binney (University of Sheffield Centre…