Tag: Climbing injuries

Treating “Climber’s Elbow” – Rehab and Preha...

Posted by Eric Hörst | Apr 18, 2025 | The Hurt Locker (Injury)

Podcast #112: Tips for Optimizing Climbing Trainin...

Posted by Eric Hörst | Feb 4, 2025 | Basic Training, Podcasts, Train Body

Training and Nutritional Influence on Connective T...

Posted by Eric Hörst | Jan 22, 2025 | Nutrition & Recovery, The Hurt Locker (Injury), Train Body

How to Develop Stronger Fingers and Tendons for Cl...

Posted by Eric Hörst | Nov 21, 2024 | Nutrition & Recovery, Research, Train Body

Finger Warm-Ups for Better Climbing (with Reduced ...

Posted by Lucie Hanes | Oct 7, 2024 | The Hurt Locker (Injury), Training Articles

“60 Is the New 40” – Fighting Father Time (Lessons...

Posted by Lucie Hanes | Feb 15, 2024 | Athlete Spotlights, Train Body, Train Mind, Train Strategy

Amity Warme’s Inspiring Approach to Recovery From Pulley Rupture

by Lucie Hanes | Jan 26, 2024 | Athlete Spotlights

If there’s one guarantee in sports, it’s that injuries will come for us all at some...

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Youth Climbing Injuries (and Prevention)

by Eric Hörst | Nov 7, 2022 | The Hurt Locker (Injury), Training Articles, Youth Training

There’s no way to make climbing 100% safe for anyone. But youth climbers face their own set...

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Video: Coach Hörst Climbing Training Interview with Dr. Jared Vagy

by Eric Hörst | Mar 19, 2022 | The Hurt Locker (Injury), Train Body

Watch The Climbing Doctor, Jared Vagy, interview Eric Hörst on a wide range of important topics...

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ACT eBook Free Download – Rehab and Prehab Exercise Book for Climbers

by Eric Hörst | Aug 1, 2020 | The Hurt Locker (Injury), Train Body

Adjunct Compensatory Training for Climbers — FREE eBook download! A few of my German climbing...

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Podcast #45 – Ask Coach Horst about Training for Climbing

by Eric Hörst | Mar 10, 2020 | Podcasts

Questions on training and climbing performance answered via podcast! In this episode of Ask Coach...

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Must-Do Rotator Cuff Training for Climbers (in 10 Minutes!)

by Eric Hörst | Nov 1, 2019 | The Hurt Locker (Injury), Train Body, Training Articles, Training Videos

Learn five simple, yet effective exercises to strengthen your rotator cuff! Climbing requires...

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Podcast #40: Blood Flow Restriction Training for Climbers

by Eric Hörst | Oct 8, 2019 | Podcasts, The Hurt Locker (Injury)

In a departure from my usual lecture style podcasts, I’m happy to feature a guest on this...

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Video: Geek Climber Q&A on Finger A2 Pulley Injury Recovery

by Eric Hörst | Sep 17, 2019 | Nutrition & Recovery, The Hurt Locker (Injury), Training Videos

Finger pulley tweaks are the most common climbing injury. No one is immune—not beginner,...

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Podcast #39: Climbing Injuries – A Perfect Storm Brewing…

by Eric Hörst | Sep 4, 2019 | Nutrition & Recovery, Podcasts, The Hurt Locker (Injury), Training Articles

Causes of Common Overuse Injuries and What You Can Do To Prevent Them! This is the fourth in a...

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Podcast #38: Ask Coach Hörst (Round 6)

by Eric Hörst | Aug 6, 2019 | Basic Training, Podcasts

In this episode of Ask Coach Hörst…Eric answers 7 wide-ranging questions from listeners....

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Daily “Protective Training” Protocol for Stronger Finger Tendons and Pulleys

by Eric Hörst | Jul 26, 2019 | The Hurt Locker (Injury), Train Body, Training Articles, Training Videos

Climbing is hard on the finger flexor tendons, annular pulleys (A2 and such), and joints. If you...

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Podcast #34: A Revolution in Finger Training for Climbers

by Eric Hörst | Apr 21, 2019 | Nutrition & Recovery, Podcasts, The Hurt Locker (Injury)

This may be the most important podcast you’ve heard in a long time…or, perhaps, ever!...

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training4climbing

Climbing & training tips from climbing coach and best-selling author Eric Hörst. #TrainSmarter #ClimbStronger #BoulderBetter
DM your training clips 💪

🚨New Podcast Alert 🚨 . Episode 115 of the Tr

🚨New Podcast Alert 🚨
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Episode 115 of the Training for Climbing podcast is available today. This podcast features @thestruggleclimbingshow host Ryan Devlin and discusses his breakthrough of 13a, and the process of progressing beyond, including grad pyramids, planning and projecting! Find a link in the bio, or wherever you listen to podcasts.
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#climb #trainingforclimbing #training

#Repost @yannick_flohe . All climbers see crazy st

#Repost @yannick_flohe . All climbers see crazy strength displays like this and wonder how to take a step towards getting there themselves. Surely it will take time (or a lifetime) to do this, but you’ll have to start on the hangboard. Everyone wants stronger fingers but few understands just how to do it right. Learn four essential fingerboard training protocols to improve your climbing strength and endurance from the article found in the link in bio!

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My fat ass learning how to hang the @beastmakers 6mm edges 🫨 New Year’s resolution: strong fingers 🤞
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#training#lifting#fitness#beastmaker#fingerboard#motivation#climbing#bouldering#trainingforclimbing

As many aspire to maximize their potential, squeez

As many aspire to maximize their potential, squeeze out every juice of performance, you may wonder what makes the pros so capable at doing this same thing. As you may expect, there are a handful of characteristics and tactics that make the pros, the pros… and you can adopt some yourself. Click the link in bio to hear about tapping into your potential and being like the best in a past but still pertinent episode of the training for climbing podcast!
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#climbing #training #trainingforclimbing

#Repost @thestruggleclimbingshow . Everyone has h

#Repost @thestruggleclimbingshow
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Everyone has heard about building their pyramid, but what does that actually look like on an person to person basis, and how do you balance this with projecting?
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In the recent Road to the Pyramid chat with Coach @eric_horst, I was reminded of the importance of aerobic training even in the “off season”... the lack of which I’ve definitely been feeling as I try longer routes this spring. For more of Eric’s sound wisdom and specific training protocols for route-climbing season, check out the full episode on Spotify, Apple, YouTube, or wherever your pod. Bonus stuff over on Patreon!

Have you checked in with yourself lately about you

Have you checked in with yourself lately about your goals in training and climbing? What about in your life beyond climbing? What’s your destination? How will you get there?
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These questions get answered by Coach Hörst in a quick article and video. Learn about the process of success and how you can fit this formula into your goal! Click the link in Bio to read about it.
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#climbing #training #trainingforclimbing

This is a problem everyone encounters. These tacti

This is a problem everyone encounters. These tactics can only be learned through trial and may be extremely impactful towards your performance. Although the weather is getting warmer out, it is never too late to stay on top of your high end performance strategies. Check it out more in depth in the link in bio.
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#trainingforclimbing #climbing #training

Training Inspo with @alexandermegos 💪🏼 30

Training Inspo with @alexandermegos 💪🏼

30 one arm pull ups:
• 1 rep with +15kg
• 2 reps with +9kg
• 3 reps with +6kg
• 4 reps with +3kg
• 5 reps with +0kg
(+100 two arm pull ups in 10min later on).

#trainingforclimbing

Warming up is easy when you know how! Here’s 3 s

Warming up is easy when you know how! Here’s 3 steps to a quick and easy finger warm up at the crag! 🤌⁣
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1️⃣ Repeater pulls⁣
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Grab a sling and a lifting edge, like the MXEdge Lift or Mini Bar.⁣
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Hook the sling around your foot and complete several reps and sets on each arm, gradually building up the force on each set. ⁣
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The max effort on a single pull should be around 6/10 on the last set. ⁣
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2️⃣ Max hang pulls⁣
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This isn’t actually max effort, but a build-up from a 6/10 effort to an 8/10 effort on each pull. ⁣
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Pull on the same edge in your chosen grip for around 10 seconds and complete a few sets on each arm with more rest between each set. ⁣
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3️⃣ Get Specific ⁣
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Before pulling on, check out the type of holds you will be using on your climb. You can use the same protocol as in step 2 but with different grip types. ⁣
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If there are lots of small crimps on your chosen climb, complete some pulls in a crimp position using a smaller edge.⁣
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If there are lots of pockets on your climb complete the same pulls using 1 or 2 fingers on the hold. ⁣
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➡️ Need a warm-up tool for the season check out the Mx edge on our website for our audience in the USA! @physivantage is the USA based distributor. Link in our bio

📷 Photo by tcpc5525
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#LatticeTraining #WeTrainClimbers #ClimbingWarmUp #FingerStrength

Almost every climber has some interaction with int

Almost every climber has some interaction with interior or exterior forearm pain. A key to mitigating, or preventing this can be deliberate training if the forearm antagonist muscles to counterbalance the usual muscles overused in climbing training. So if you are curious how to train the climbing antagonist muscles in your forearms? Here’s a brief biomechanical overview of the muscle interaction in the forearm. Click the link in bio to watch the entire video for antagonist training on the TFC YouTube channel!

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