Want to dip your toes into structured climbing training! You’re in the right place! Below are several training programs that are available for free, inspired by Coach Eric Hörst’s two bestselling books on climbing training: Training for Climbing (3rd edition) and The Rock Climber’s Exercise Guide.
These programs are supplements to the material included in these books. For more detailed instruction on proper exercise execution, plus information on injury prevention, climbing technique, mental skills, sports nutrition, and more, please dive into the full texts!
The programs will download in the form of Excel spreadsheets, which you’re welcome to modify to fit your personal needs and time available for training. I’d appreciate hearing your thoughts and experiences with the programs too! Reach out with any success stories, suggestions, and personal insights you’d like to share.
Happy training!
Beginner Training Program
Experience/Ability: <1 year experience, <5.11 TR & < V4 boulder
Program overview: Learn climbing skills, refine technique, develop mental skills and manage fear, improve body composition & general conditioning, increase climbing-specific strength & endurance, develop important stabilizer and antagonist-muscle strength.
Time commitment: 1 – 2.5 hours, 2 to 5 days per week (including climbing days)
Download program >> (Please read Terms of Use)
Intermediate Training Program
Experience/Ability: 5.11a – 5.13a redpoint & V4-V8 bouldering
Program overview: Increase maximum strength & power and limit bouldering ability, increase strength/power-endurance, improve stamina, aerobic endurance and recovery ability, increase important rotator cuff strength, stabilizer and antagonist muscle strength, refine mental and technical skills.
Time commitment: 1.5 – 4 hours, 3 to 6 days per week (including climbing days)
Download program >> (Please read Terms of Use)
Advanced Training Program
Experience/Ability: 3+ years experience & >5.13a redpoint and/or >V8 bouldering
Program overview: Build elite-level strength & power, improve strength/power-endurance, enhance recovery capability, fortify rotator cuff and stabilizer muscles for injury avoidance and peak performance.
Time commitment: 1.5 – 5 hours, 4 to 6 days per week (including climbing days)
Download program >> (Please read Terms of Use)
A Note for Advanced Climbers:
Properly executing the Intermediate and Advanced training programs demands that you understand and apply the “Training Zones for Climbers” ratings of perceived exertion (RPE). This subjective scale of climbing intensity is an important tool for climbing and training at the proper intensity. It allows climbers to accurately target a specific energy system and, as a result, obtain the desired training adaptations. Find a detailed explanation of these energy system “training zones” on pages 94 – 97 and 110 – 115 of Training for Climbing (3rd edition).
Macrocycle Scheduling
As presented in Training for Climbing, use this spreadsheet to plan your training blocks, performance days & trips, and rest breaks from training/climbing. Track your training and achievements throughout the year—it’s motivating, gratifying, and it will help you train smarter!
Download Macrocycle template >> (Please read Terms of Use)
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