Here’s a partial archive of training articles—I hope you find them valuable! This knowledge base will be ever expanding, so join the T4C mailing list (right column) to get monthly updates on the latest site features.
Train Mind:
- “Free Solo” – The Best Climbing Movie Ever?
- Video: Alex Honnold & Jonathan Siegrist Training to Send!
- Self-Discipline & Commitment: The Great Equalizers
- Performance Analysis of Adam Ondra’s Breakthrough Ascent of the World’s First 5.15d/9c
- Podcast #19: Training, Productivity, & Performance Tips for 2018
- Podcast #17: Training to Control the Fear of Falling
- Coaching Video: Managing the Fear of Falling
- Leveraging “Process Feedback” to Elevate Performance
- Podcast #14: Performance Tips for Weekend Warriors
- Managing the Fear of Falling
View complete list of mental training articles.
Train Body:
- Podcast #31: Hangboard Training Guidelines, Pro Tips, and Research
- Video: The Best Climbing Exercise You’re Not Doing!
- Video: Effective Treadwall Training for Endurance, Strength, and Power
- Hörst Training Interview with Desnivel Magazine
- Podcast #28: Energy System Training (part 5) – The Art of the Science
- Conceptual Model for Maximum-Difficulty Sport Climbing
- Podcast #26: Energy System Training (part 4) – Aerobic Power
- Podcast #24: Energy System Training (part 3) – Anaerobic Capacity Training #2
- Aerobic Energy System Arm Training for Climbers with Endless Rope!
- Video: Stefano Ghisolfi “Campus Training” 5.13c Route!
View complete list of articles on training strength, power, endurance, stamina, and more!
Train Technique & Skill:
- Podcast #31: Hangboard Training Guidelines, Pro Tips, and Research
- Introducing the “Ultimate Board” — Finger Training for Climbers
- What Makes Adam Ondra the World’s Best Climber?
- Video: The Best Climbing Exercise You’re Not Doing!
- Podcast #30: Climbing Research Highlights & Training Tips
- Video: Margo Hayes’ Success Formula
- Podcast #29: Ask Coach Hörst (Round 4)
- Video: Effective Treadwall Training for Endurance, Strength, and Power
- Hörst Training Interview with Desnivel Magazine
- Podcast #28: Energy System Training (part 5) – The Art of the Science
View complete list of articles on training technique and skill.
Train Strategy:
- Conceptual Model for Maximum-Difficulty Sport Climbing
- 10 Do’s & Don’ts for Effective Redpointing
- Video: Training for the Crux
- Performance Analysis of Adam Ondra’s Breakthrough Ascent of the World’s First 5.15d/9c
- What You Can Learn from Margo Hayes’ Send of Biography (5.15a)!
- Podcast #14: Performance Tips for Weekend Warriors
- Projecting 101 – 6 Tips to Sending Your Project!
- The “10-4 Rule” – A Guideline for Projecting (and Steady Improvement)
- Effectiveness of “Dangling Arm” and “G-Tox” Recovery Techniques
- Benefits of Active Recovery Between Climbs
Treat Injury:
- Lumbrical Muscle Training & Injury Treatment
- Functional Outcome After Surgical Repair of Rotator Cuff Tears in Rock Climbers
- Reducing Risk of Growth Plate Fractures in Youth Climbers
- Taping Finger & Elbow Injuries
- Treating “Climber’s Elbow”
- Youth Climbing Injuries (and Prevention)
- Finger Tendon Pulley Injury
Nutrition & Recovery:
- The Truth About Caffeine and Climbing
- Optimizing Body Composition (and ↑ Strength-to-Power Ratio)
- Overview of Fatigue & Accelerating Recovery
- The Truth About Creatine for Climbers
Youth Training:
- Reducing Risk of Growth Plate Fractures in Youth Climbers
- Youth Climbing Injuries (and Prevention)
- Overview of Youth Training for Climbing
- Youth Climbers – Skill Development
- Youth Climbers – Cognitive Development
- Age-Appropriate Strength Training for Youth Climbers
Podcasts:
- Podcast #31: Hangboard Training Guidelines, Pro Tips, and Research
- Podcast #30: Climbing Research Highlights & Training Tips
- Podcast #29: Ask Coach Hörst (Round 4)
- Podcast #28: Energy System Training (part 5) – The Art of the Science
- Podcast #27: Ask Coach Hörst (Round 3)
- Podcast #26: Energy System Training (part 4) – Aerobic Power
- Podcast #25: Ask Coach Hörst (Round 2)
- Podcast #24: Energy System Training (part 3) – Anaerobic Capacity Training #2
- Podcast #23: Energy System Training (part 2) – Anaerobic Lactic System #1
- Podcast #22: Ask Coach Hörst – Hangboard Training, Big Wall Training, Multi-Sport Training, and more!
View complete list of training/performance podcasts.
- Subscribe to the “Training For Climbing” podcast on iTunes!
Copyright © 2000–2018 Eric J. Hörst | All Rights Reserved.