Here’s a partial archive of training articles—I hope you find them valuable! This knowledge base will be ever expanding, so join the T4C mailing list (right column) to get monthly updates on the latest site features.
Train Mind:
- Attitude is Everything! (Well, almost.)
- Podcast #32: Success Strategies for Peak Performance!
- Simple Formula for Extreme Success (In Anything!)
- Score Your Climbing Capabilities with the T4C Online Self-Assessment Worksheet
- “Free Solo” – The Best Climbing Movie Ever?
- Video: Alex Honnold & Jonathan Siegrist Training to Send!
- Self-Discipline & Commitment: The Great Equalizers
- Performance Analysis of Adam Ondra’s Breakthrough Ascent of the World’s First 5.15d/9c
- Podcast #19: Training, Productivity, & Performance Tips for 2018
- Podcast #17: Training to Control the Fear of Falling
View complete list of mental training articles.
Train Body:
- Podcast #35 – Ask Coach Hörst – Round 5
- Hangboard Finger Training – The 7/3 Repeater Protocol
- How to Develop Stronger, Healthier Fingers and Tendons for Climbing
- Video: Two Basic Exercises for Developing Strength & Power for Climbing
- Podcast #33: Intro to Training for Stronger Tendons and Ligaments
- Introducing PhysiVāntage — Research-Based Supplements for Climbers!
- My Favorite Core Exercise: “Windshield Wipers”
- Hypergravity Pull-up Training for Increased Strength, Power, and Endurance
- 5 Training Tips for the New Year
- Podcast #31: Hangboard Training Guidelines, Pro Tips, and Research
View complete list of articles on training strength, power, endurance, stamina, and more!
Train Technique & Skill:
- Podcast #35 – Ask Coach Hörst – Round 5
- Hangboard Finger Training – The 7/3 Repeater Protocol
- How to Develop Stronger, Healthier Fingers and Tendons for Climbing
- Video: Adam Ondra Training for 2020 Olympic Climbing
- Podcast #34: A Revolution in Finger Training for Climbers
- Video: Two Basic Exercises for Developing Strength & Power for Climbing
- The “10-4 Rule” for Projecting Sport Climbs (and Steady Improvement!)
- Attitude is Everything! (Well, almost.)
- Podcast #33: Intro to Training for Stronger Tendons and Ligaments
- Introducing PhysiVāntage — Research-Based Supplements for Climbers!
View complete list of articles on training technique and skill.
Train Strategy:
- The “10-4 Rule” for Projecting Sport Climbs (and Steady Improvement!)
- 10 Do’s & Don’ts for Effective Redpointing
- Video: Training for the Crux
- Simple Formula for Extreme Success (In Anything!)
- Conceptual Model for Maximum-Difficulty Sport Climbing
- Performance Analysis of Adam Ondra’s Breakthrough Ascent of the World’s First 5.15d/9c
- What You Can Learn from Margo Hayes’ Send of Biography (5.15a)!
- Podcast #14: Performance Tips for Weekend Warriors
- Projecting 101 – 6 Tips to Sending Your Project!
- Effectiveness of “Dangling Arm” and “G-Tox” Recovery Techniques
Treat Injury:
- Podcast #34: A Revolution in Finger Training for Climbers
- Podcast #33: Intro to Training for Stronger Tendons and Ligaments
- Introducing PhysiVāntage — Research-Based Supplements for Climbers!
- Lumbrical Muscle Training & Injury Treatment
- Functional Outcome After Surgical Repair of Rotator Cuff Tears in Rock Climbers
- Reducing Risk of Growth Plate Fractures in Youth Climbers
- Taping Finger & Elbow Injuries
- Treating “Climber’s Elbow”
- Youth Climbing Injuries (and Prevention)
- Finger Tendon Pulley Injury
Nutrition & Recovery:
- How to Develop Stronger, Healthier Fingers and Tendons for Climbing
- Podcast #34: A Revolution in Finger Training for Climbers
- Podcast #33: Intro to Training for Stronger Tendons and Ligaments
- Introducing PhysiVāntage — Research-Based Supplements for Climbers!
- The Truth About Caffeine and Climbing Performance
- Optimizing Body Composition (and ↑ Strength-to-Power Ratio)
- Overview of Fatigue & Accelerating Recovery
- The Truth About Creatine for Climbers
Youth Training:
- Reducing Risk of Growth Plate Fractures in Youth Climbers
- Youth Climbing Injuries (and Prevention)
- Overview of Youth Training for Climbing
- Youth Climbers – Skill Development
- Youth Climbers – Cognitive Development
- Age-Appropriate Strength Training for Youth Climbers
Podcasts:
- Podcast #35 – Ask Coach Hörst – Round 5
- Podcast #34: A Revolution in Finger Training for Climbers
- Podcast #33: Intro to Training for Stronger Tendons and Ligaments
- Podcast #32: Success Strategies for Peak Performance!
- Podcast #31: Hangboard Training Guidelines, Pro Tips, and Research
- Podcast #30: Climbing Research Highlights & Training Tips
- Podcast #29: Ask Coach Hörst (Round 4)
- Podcast #28: Energy System Training (part 5) – The Art of the Science
- Podcast #27: Ask Coach Hörst (Round 3)
- Podcast #26: Energy System Training (part 4) – Aerobic Power
View complete list of training/performance podcasts.
- Subscribe to the “Training For Climbing” podcast on iTunes!
Copyright © 2000–2018 Eric J. Hörst | All Rights Reserved.